What Speed and Feed Should I Run My Bandsaw At?

Understanding "speeds and feeds" is crucial for any saw operator looking to avoid costly blade failures and improve cut quality. But what do these terms actually mean, and how can you get them right? If you've ever questioned why your blade isn't lasting or your cuts aren’t as clean as they should be, this guide will clarify it all.

This is a common question for saw operators. It’s one of the basic things that you need to know to be able to properly use a bandsaw.

Often, I’ll get asked this question when someone has had a blade fail. It causes them to question the process and look for ways to prevent blade failure in the future. Speeds and feeds are also a common concern when trying to improve the finish of the cut.

Hold up – what actually are ‘speeds and feeds’?

Maybe you haven’t heard of the term before – or you’d like some clarification. Here’s what it refers to.

Bandsaw speed

Bandsaw speed is how fast the blade is moving around the saw.

On a bandsaw machine, the blade rests on the wheels, and then is put under tension. This means that when the wheels spin, they take the blade with it, allowing it to move the teeth on the blade through the cut. How fast the teeth move through the cut is what we’d call the ‘blade speed’. It is measured in metres per minute (m/min).

Most bandsaws would have a minimum of 2 speeds. However, it is more common to have a variable blade speed, between 25 and 90m/min. Variable speed is essential for cutting some types of metal, as we will discuss shortly.

Bandsaw feed

Bandsaw feed is how quickly the blade descends through the cut.

Your bandsaw may have a gravity down feed, or a fully automatic down feed. The bandsaw feed is how much downwards force you are putting on the blade.

The danger here is that whilst you can force a blade through the cut and damage it, you can also not apply enough pressure, leading to continual rubbing on the teeth and work hardening, making the blade brittle and more prone to snapping.

What can go wrong when I don’t use the correct speeds and feeds?

When you’re using incorrect bandsaw speeds and feeds, your blades are not going to last as long.

Incorrect feed causes blades to prematurely break. If you force the blade through the cut, you’re causing the blade to bulge between the guides. This problem can be exacerbated if you have not got your guides in the correct position. If you don’t have enough down feed pressure, you’re going to let the blade sit in the cut without moving downwards enough, leading to work hardening of the teeth and steel, making them brittle. This could lead to losing teeth and a ‘bouncing’ blade – a sure sign of a damaged bandsaw blade.

Other issues are a blade failing mid-way through a cut, stripped teeth, crooked cut, and cutting on an angle.

Incorrect speeds cause damage to the teeth. If a blade goes too fast it can cause issues like too much heat and friction. This essentially dulls the tips and also causing premature fracturing. If the blade goes too slow it can cause overloading of the tips and gullets causing issues like fracturing, and chip welding, etc.

Ok, so how do I do it correctly?

Correct feeds and speeds will maximise your blade life and give accurate, consistent results.

1. Understand what you are cutting

Firstly – have an understanding of the product you’re cutting. It is largely impacted by the type of metal it is, but the tooth pitch and piece size also impact it.

Bandsaw Speeds & Feeds Calculator


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From there, you can use this chart to help you figure out the correct speeds and feeds.

Material Size (mm) Speed (m/min) Feed (mm/min)
Structural Steel, Deep Drawing, Free Cutting Steel
10-100 72-104 83-285
100-400 60-98 19-112
400-900 38-74 5-26
900-2000 28-52 1.8-6.7
Structural Steel, Heat Treatable Steel
10-100 56-86 63-245
100-400 44-76 14-85
400-900 33-58 4.2-14
900-2000 26-45 1.3-5.7
Case Hardened, Spring Steels
10-100 53-81 57-209
100-400 41-71 12-77
400-900 31-53 4-13
900-2000 25-43 1.4-5.4
Low Alloyed Steels, Working Tool Steels
10-100 37-60 25-113
100-400 27-51 7.1-33
400-900 22-35 2.3-7.6
900-2000 17-30 0.9-3.1
High alloyed hot working tool steels, nitriding steels
10-100 34-58 23-109
100-400 26-46 6.5-32
400-900 20-32 2.1-6.7
900-2000 14-26 0.9-2.8
Carbon tool steels, bearing steels
10-100 41-69 43-135
100-400 8.4-59 8.4-59
400-900 2.8-8.6 2.8-8.6
900-2000 1-3.8 1-3.8
Cold working steels
10-100 31-52 19-95
100-400 23-41 6.2-26
400-900 18-30 2-6.2
900-2000 13-24 0.7-2.7
High speed steels
10-100 37-60 25-113
100-400 27-51 7.1-33
400-900 22-35 2.3-7.6
900-2000 17-30 0.9-3.1
Tool Steel, Stainless Steel
10-100 34-58 23-109
100-400 26-46 6.5-32
400-900 20-32 2.1-6.7
900-2000 14-26 0.9-2.8
Stainless Steels (High)
10-100 31-52 19-95
100-400 23-41 6.2-26
400-900 18-30 2-6.2
900-2000 13-24 0.7-2.7
Heat Resistant Steels
10-100 27-46 17-80
100-400 18-37 3.7-23
400-1000 11-22 1-3.9
Nickel-based alloys
10-100 20-37 9-49
100-400 14-28 2.3-12
400-1000 7-17 0.4-2.4
Cast Iron
10-100 46-75 86-265
100-400 32-62 17-116
400-900 26-39 4-16
900-2000 20-35 0.8-5.4
Aluminium, Aluminium Alloys
10-100 102-138 183-652
100-400 102-138 70-247
400-900 102-138 28-73
900-2000 102-138 12-38
Aluminium, Aluminium Alloys - without band twist
10-100 2125-2875 1905-13593
100-400 1700-2875 527-2577
400-900 835-2070 92-440
900-2000 510-1265 12-125
Copper
10-100 95-138 72-348
100-400 75-129 21-98
400-900 51-92 5.4-17
900-2000 43-69 1.7-7.3
Brass
10-100 131-184 108-609
100-400 97-177 20-147
400-900 71-120 6.5-19
900-2000 55-97 2.8-8.8
Aluminium-Bronze, Copper-Nickel alloys
10-100 32-54 19-94
100-400 24-44 5.1-25
400-1000 18-31 1.5-5.4

Essentially, harder and bigger materials need to be cut at much slower speeds and feeds.

2. Listen to the cut

It is crucial to listen to the blade as it begins to cut – I always say that “you need to be able to hear the teeth cutting.” If you can’t hear the teeth working, then you haven’t got it right.

3. Check the swarf

You can learn a lot by checking the size, colour and shape of the swarf. Whilst different metals produce different swarf chips, you can use the below chart as a guide to help fine-tune your feed rates and blade speed.

 Swarf

Shape of swarf Thick, hard and short

Thick, hard and brittle

Thick, hard and curled Thin, hard and curled Thin, spiral and curled Thin, spiral and curled Like dust Thin and very curled
Colour of sward Blue or brown Blue or brown Silver or yellow Silver Silver Silver Silver Silver
Bandsaw speed Decrease Decrease Suitable Ideal Suitable Suitable Decrease Suitable
Feed rate Decrease Decrease Decrease a little Ideal Suitable Increase Increase Decrease
Other Check coolant level Check coolant level Check number of teeth is correct Use coarser tooth pitch

Not sure how to measure blade speed?

Most bandsaws will have ways of measuring your bandsaw speed. But if yours doesn't, here's a simple trick to get a rough guide.

For blade speed, make a large, visible mark on the blade. Now time how long it takes to move around the saw (i.e. 2s).

Use this formula to work out the speed.

(blade length (mm) / 1000) x (60 / time it took to go around the saw)

It could look like:

(2500 / 1000) x (60/2) = blade speed of 75.

Checking your speeds and feeds going forward

Speeds and feeds are not a set-and-forget. As a good bandsaw blade operator, you’re going to need to be continuously adjusting them depending on what material you’ve got and what machine you’re using.

Most importantly – be aware of how the blade is cutting. Listen to it, and observe the swarf chips.

You should also periodically get your blade speed fact-checked. The machine gauge is not always reliable, and it could cause you headaches in the future.

Our handy team of blade experts is also here to help – we can do a full bandsaw assessment to make sure your machines are running smoothly.

Issues with your bandsaw speeds and feeds?

Get an expert opinion from one of our technical engineers to get your saw running smoothly.

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